Adam Paul

After waiting in a potentially very long line (go on a weekday or in the morning for the shortest waits, and be aware that this is an active church, so Sunday mornings are out), the interior of St. Vitus Cathedral is a treat for the eyes.

Looking toward St. Vitus’ altar

With Gothic arches soaring high overhead, stained glass windows galore, and several notable tombs, there is plenty to keep the eyes occupied as you walk around this large church.

St. Vitus’ organ

Although most, if not all, of the stained glass is from circa 1900, it’s of very high quality.

Stained glass

Because construction of the cathedral took over 400 years and funds were tight near its completion, many of the glass panels bear the names of their sponsors – banks, insurance companies, and the like.

More stained glass

The color schemes of the windows are different than most I’ve seen, with strong reds, blues and sometimes greens dominating.

Still more stained glass

The detailing of the glass is superb – I can’t even imagine how many individual glass pieces there are in the window above!

A large stained glass

For me the highlight, by far, is a stunning painted glass by the superb Czech Art Nouveau illustrator AlfonsMucha:

Alfons Mucha painted glass, detail

Alfons Mucha painted glass, detail

Alfons Mucha painted glass, detail

Alfons Mucha painted glass, detail

Alfons Mucha painted glass panel, entire

His soaring panel exemplifies the Art Nouveau decorative style, with its natural themes, bold yet soft colors, and mixture of straight and organic lines.

Relief Christ-figure

In addition to the windows, carvings and reliefs are everywhere.

Altar piece

Impossible to miss, in the middle of the walkway around the altar area, is the enormous, solid silver tomb of St. John of Nepomuk.

Tomb of St. John of Nepomuck

This gargantuan sarcophagus, made from two tons of solid silver, makes up in fanciness what it lacks in subtlety.

Tomb of St. John of Nepomuck

An ersatz Catholic Czech equivalent of the martyred Jan Hus, it seems no expense was spared in the church’s attempt to make him the Catholic patron saint of the Czechs.

Tomb of St. John of Nepomuck

While walking around the tomb, look down, as many notable early Czech saints are interred or memorialized here as well.

Tomb of St. John of Nepomuck

Also fascinating is the Chapel of St. Wenceslaus (1344-64), which is not open to the public, but one can get views of it from the adjoining rooms.  This fine chapel has walls adorned with semi-precious stones, and contains the relics of St. Wenceslaus, the “Good King” of the Christmas carol.

Chapel of St. Wenceslaus

Despite my general dislike of highly-touristed areas, it would be unthinkable to visit Prague without seeing St. Vitus Cathedral – it’s a masterpiece of architecture, glasswork, and culture, and should be on anyone’s itinerary.

Prague index:

• Part 1: Vysehrad
• Part 2: Vysehradsky hrbitov (Vysehrad cemetery)
• Part 3: Karluv Most (Charles Bridge)
• Part 4: Vaclavske namesti (Wenceslas Square)
• Part 5: Letecke Muzeum Kbely (Czech Air Force Museum)
• Part 6: Stare Mesto (Old Town)
• Part 7: Staromestske namesti (Old Town Square)
• Part 8: Prazsky orloj (Astronomical Clock)
• Part 9: Josefov (Jewish Quarter)
• Part 10: Vltava River
• Part 11: St. Nicholas Cathedral (Chram sv. Mikulase)
• Part 12: Wallenstein Palace (Valdstejnsky palac)
• Part 13: Kampa Island
• Part 14: Mala Strana street art
• Part 15: Petrin Hill
• Part 16: Mala Strana
• Part 17: Mala Strana house signs
• Part 18: Strahovský klášter (Strahov Monastery)
• Part 19: Schwarzenberský palác (Schwarzenberg Palace)
• Part 20: Toy Musuem
• Part 21: St. Vitus Cathedral gargoyles
• Part 22: St. Vitus Cathedral (exterior)
• Part 23: St. Vitus Cathedral (interior) <– You are here
• Part 24: Prazky Hrad (Prague Castle), I
• Part 25: Prazky Hrad (Prague Castle), II